Converting a vehicle from an aging factory steering setup to a new steering box can transform the way it drives. The right tools make the difference between a clean, confidence‑inspiring installation and a weekend of broken fasteners, chewed splines, and mismatched geometry. Over the years I have done everything from manual to power steering conversion on classic trucks to tight, modern upgrades on performance cars. The patterns repeat. A successful swap depends on preparation, accurate measurement, and a few specialized tools that do not live in every home toolbox.
This guide walks through the equipment that matters most, why it matters, and how to use it with care. I have woven in the related hardware choices you will face, including selecting an aftermarket steering shaft and the correct steering universal joint. Whether you are installing a steering box conversion kit in a vintage 4x4 or a street machine, the same principles carry over.
Start with the kit and the car in front of you
No two steering box conversion kits mount exactly the same. Frame thickness, engine accessory layout, exhaust routing, and column angle change the geometry. A power steering conversion kit often adds pump brackets, hoses, and a different pitman arm taper. A manual box replacement may keep the existing column but still require a new rag joint or a double D shaft. Open the boxes and inventory everything. Then crawl under the vehicle and make a mental map. Measure twice, then again.
A reliable install starts with proper fastener handling and straight driveline alignment. That means torque accuracy, precise layout, and the ability to trim and deburr new steering shafts without compromising the splines or the set screw flats.
Core hand tools that carry most of the load
For the mechanical side, a standard set of metric and SAE sockets, wrenches, breaker bars, and extensions is the baseline. Old steering box bolts often seize in the frame. Expect to need a penetrating oil that really creeps, a propane torch or induction heater for stubborn hardware, and an impact wrench only when you have confirmed thread direction and captured the nut to avoid spinning the cage.
A good torque wrench is non‑negotiable. Steering box fasteners see cyclic loads that loosen under vibration if they are under‑torqued, yet a frame horn will crack if you lean on it too hard. Use the torque values supplied by the steering box conversion kit manufacturer. If values are not stated, reference the steering box maker’s data by bolt size and grade, then note any coating or lubrication that could change clamping force.
I carry a compact ratcheting wrench set for working around headers and motor mounts, a long‑handled 1/2 inch ratchet for pitman arm nuts, and a 3/8 inch torque wrench for smaller clamp bolts on the universal joint steering connections. Add a quality pry bar and a dead‑blow mallet to help seat brackets without mushrooming edges.
Specialty tools that save hours
Several jobs in this swap can turn ugly without the right pullers and presses. A pitman arm puller is an absolute requirement. Even a low‑mile arm can seize on the sector shaft. Do not try to wedge it off with a pickle fork. A dedicated pitman puller keeps the forces centered and minimizes damage to the sector seal. A two‑jaw puller with a beefy screw can work in a pinch, but the jaws tend to walk off the tapered hub.
A tie rod or drag link separator that uses a screw action rather than hammer blows protects the steering knuckles and ball studs. The percussion type works, but it often mushrooms threads and transfers shock into delicate components. When in doubt, use the tool that loads the joint slowly and evenly.
For the steering column side, a steering wheel puller is usually unnecessary unless you are altering column length internally. What you will need is a column shaft support or a temporary hanger to keep the column straight while the intermediate shaft is disconnected. A nylon strap around the wheel tied to the seat frame works fine, as long as the wheel is centered and immobile.
If you are modifying an aftermarket steering shaft, especially a double D or splined shaft, a chop saw with an abrasive wheel or a fine‑tooth band saw makes clean, square cuts. Follow with a deburring tool and a flat file to break sharp edges. Never use a grinder that overheats and colors the steel near the cut. Heat changes hardness and can lead to galling when you install a clamp‑style steering universal joint.
A digital angle finder pays for itself. Steering geometry tolerates small angular changes, but universal joint steering components work best when the working angles are modest and the phasing is correct. I aim for individual joint angles under 30 degrees and as equal as possible when using two joints. The angle finder helps you set the column mount shims, choose the correct joint clocking, and confirm that the pump and hoses in a power steering conversion kit will clear at full travel.
Finally, have a paint marker, machinist’s scribe, and a center punch. You will transfer hole locations, mark clocking on shafts, and identify the true center of the steering gear before you connect anything downstream.
Dealing with the pitman arm and steering linkage
The pitman arm is where the new steering box meets the rest of the car. Even with an out‑of‑the‑box pitman, tolerances matter. Before you tear down the old setup, count turns lock to lock and identify the center position. Mark the old pitman orientation relative to the sector shaft. On many vehicles the sector is indexed, but not all. When you mount the new box, center it using the manufacturer’s method, often by counting turns then finding the midpoint. On Saginaw‑style boxes I prefer to remove the pitman and feel for the slight high‑spot in the worm that indicates center.
A torque wrench and the right deep socket are essential for the pitman nut. The value can be high, often in the 175 to 225 lb‑ft range for larger trucks, lower for compact boxes. Use a new lock washer or locking nut as specified. Grease the taper on tie rod ends only if the manual calls for anti‑seize on the threads. Do not grease the tapered seat itself. A greased taper can over‑seat and crack the pitman.
If your steering box conversion kit includes a new pitman arm to correct geometry or taper, verify fitment with calipers. Old tie rod ends come in several tapers. A mismatch here will give you steering slop that you cannot chase later with alignment. If you have to ream a knuckle or arm, use the correct tapered reamer and cut slowly. Measure often.
Frame preparation and mounting
Mounting a new box to a half‑century‑old frame sometimes exposes cracks or ovaled holes. Clean the area with a wire wheel and inspect with a bright light. A crack radiating from a bolt hole needs attention before you install. Drill a small stop hole at the end of the crack and weld the seam, then grind flush and fish‑plate if needed. If your kit includes a reinforcement plate, align it carefully and clamp it tight during drilling. Holes drilled with a hand drill tend to wander, so start with a center punch and pilot bit. A step bit gives cleaner, rounder holes in thin material.
Thread engagement matters. If you add a reinforcement plate inside the frame, bolt length changes. Aim for at least one to two full threads past the nut when torqued. Use Grade 8 hardware unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise. When the box shares holes with the bumper or crossmember, dry‑fit all fasteners first to ensure nothing binds.
A paint pen can mark bolt torque completion. When the box is buried behind a sway bar, those reference marks save time if you have to recheck after your first test drive.
Steering column, intermediate shaft, and U‑joints
This is the part of the job where people get into trouble. The steering column is the driver’s tactile link to the tires. Any slop, binding, or misalignment feels terrible and can be unsafe. When you replace a https://www.borgeson.com factory rag joint with a steering universal joint and an aftermarket steering shaft, you gain precision and flexibility, but you must set it up correctly.
Most aftermarket steering components use double D or 36‑spline connections. Double D is forgiving to cut and align. Splined shafts require careful deburring to avoid galling. Measure column diameter and output type before ordering. If the column has a collapsible section, protect it during install. Never weld or clamp in a way that defeats the collapse feature.
Phasing matters. If you run two U‑joints with an intermediate shaft, the yokes should be parallel so the angular velocity errors cancel each other. A misphased setup causes a cyclic tight‑loose feel as you turn the wheel. Lay the parts on the bench, align the yokes in the same plane, and mark the shaft and joints with a scribe so you can maintain alignment during assembly. A digital angle finder or even a straightedge helps keep everything in plane when the parts go in around obstacles.
Use Loctite on the set screws and jam nuts as the joint manufacturer specifies. On clamp‑style joints, torque to the stated value. Over‑tightening can deform the joint and score the shaft. Under‑tightening leads to play. I see many installs with minimal engagement length. Follow the joint maker’s minimum engagement guideline, typically at least the diameter of the shaft. If you are short on room, a collapsible aftermarket steering shaft can help, but do not compromise engagement for convenience.
Check for binding through full suspension travel. Jack up the front end and move the suspension from droop to bump while turning the wheel lock to lock. Watch the universal joint steering path for contact with headers, motor mounts, and brake lines. A small change to the column angle or a shorter joint can eliminate interference. Aim to keep each joint under about 30 degrees. Some high‑angle steering universal joint designs go a bit higher, but the feel degrades and wear accelerates at big angles.
Hydraulic side for power conversions
If you are doing a manual to power steering conversion, the pump, reservoir, and hose routing become part of the tool conversation. A flare nut wrench set protects hose fittings from rounding. A tubing bender and cutter may be necessary if your power steering conversion kit uses hardlines near the box. For AN conversions, an assembly lube and soft jaws in a bench vise keep aluminum fittings pristine.
Bleeding power steering requires patience. A vacuum bleeder is not mandatory, but on stubborn systems it removes micro bubbles that make the pump groan. At minimum, raise the front wheels, fill the reservoir, and turn the wheel slowly from lock to lock with the engine off. Refill, repeat until the level stabilizes, then start the engine and continue the process. A temperature gun helps identify an overheating pump caused by an internal bypass stuck closed or a misrouted return.
Hose clearance is not trivial. A return hose touching a header tube will cook and leak within weeks. Secure hoses with insulated clamps and leave slack for engine roll. Where the hose passes near the steering shaft, include a chafe sleeve. Think in years, not days.
Electrical and sensor considerations on modern vehicles
Late‑model vehicles use clocksprings, steering angle sensors, and sometimes variable effort steering. When you change the steering gear ratio or the physical center, you may need to recalibrate the angle sensor. A basic OBD scan tool handles resets on many platforms. On others, a more advanced scan tool is required. If the vehicle uses a hydraulic‑electric pump, verify current draw and fuse size after the conversion.
A simple but important note, disconnect the battery during the swap. Airbag systems are unforgiving if you spin the wheel with the column disconnected and then reconnect it out of phase. Tie off the steering wheel to maintain center while the intermediate shaft is out.
Measuring twice, drilling once
Any time you drill new mounting holes or enlarge existing ones, layout accuracy decides how the box sits. I like a combination square and a scribe to transfer dimensions from the template to the frame. Tape measure slack and frame taper fool you if you rush. Once marked, use a small pilot bit and step up in size. Keep the drill square to the frame rail. If you are drilling through both sides of a boxed frame, drill and bolt the outside plate first, then use the assembled plate as a guide for the inner hole.
A right‑angle drill can be a savior near crossmembers. If you do not have one, a shorty drill bit set helps. Use cutting oil. Dull bits walk and heat the metal, which work‑hardens and makes the next attempt worse.
Alignment and steering feel after the install
Even a perfect mechanical install drives poorly if the alignment is off. Changes in pitman arm length, box ratio, and drag link geometry alter toe, caster, and bump steer. Schedule a professional alignment and tell the shop what you changed. If the vehicle uses adjustable steering stops, set them so the box never goes past its internal travel at full lock. Over‑travel hammers the sector shaft and seals.
On the test drive, pay attention to on‑center feel, return to center after turns, and any hint of hitch in the wheel. A hitch usually means a misphased joint or a binding angle. A pull under power but not on coast often suggests toe or caster. A wander that improves slightly with toe‑in can also indicate a box mounted to a flexible frame area. In that case, a reinforcement plate or additional brace helps.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
I have seen a few patterns repeat across platforms and years. Too little spline engagement on the steering universal joint tops the list. People trim a shaft to clear a header and end up with only a half inch of engagement. It may feel tight in the garage, then loosen on the highway. Respect the manufacturer’s minimum engagement specification. If you need space, consider a compact joint or a different header tube routing.
Another common mistake is ignoring pump pressure compatibility during a manual to power steering conversion. Some performance pumps generate higher pressures than older boxes expect. The result is twitchy steering and premature seal failure. A flow and pressure control kit or a different pump pulley can tame the system. Aim for pressures in the range the box was designed for, often around 1,200 to 1,500 psi on many domestic setups, but always check your specific box.
Heat is the quiet killer. A return hose routed within an inch of a header will not survive. Similarly, welding near the steering shaft without shielding will draw temper from the steel. If welding on frame plates with the box nearby, wrap the box and shafts in a welding blanket and keep the ground clamp close to the weld to avoid current passing through bearings.
Finally, skipping threadlocker or torque checks on set screws invites trouble. A dab of medium‑strength threadlocker and a paint mark you can glance at later are cheap insurance.
When to replace versus reuse
Conversion kits often assume new parts everywhere. Real life budgets sometimes call for reusing a column or an existing aftermarket steering shaft. As a rule, reuse shafts only if the splines are crisp, without fretting or discoloration. Clamp marks or flats that are rounded from previous overtightening should be retired. A worn steering universal joint can feel fine on the bench but show lash under load. If in doubt, replace joints with new units matched to the shaft type and box input. The cost is modest compared to the effort of doing the job twice.
Pitman arms with visible taper wear or elongation around the sector bore should not go back in. Fasteners that were torque‑to‑yield from the factory must be replaced. Frame plates and spacers can be reused if flat and free from crush deformation.
A simple pre‑drive checklist
- All steering box and bracket fasteners torqued to spec, marked with paint for visual reference Steering wheel and box centered, pitman arm indexed correctly, and stops set to prevent over‑travel Universal joint steering connections torqued, threadlocked, properly phased, with required shaft engagement Hoses routed clear of heat and moving parts, bled with no foaming, and fittings dry Front end cycled through suspension travel with no binding or contact, then vehicle aligned
Tools I reach for every time
- Quality torque wrenches in 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive, plus a breaker bar and deep impact sockets for pitman nuts Pitman arm puller, screw‑type tie rod separator, and a right‑angle drill with step bits for frame work Digital angle finder, calipers, and a scribe for joint phasing and shaft measurement Chop saw or fine‑tooth band saw with deburring tools for trimming an aftermarket steering shaft cleanly Flare nut wrenches, vacuum bleeder, and hose clamps for a tidy power steering conversion kit bleed and finish
Final thoughts from the shop floor
Installing a steering box conversion kit is not just a bolt‑on job. It is a system upgrade that touches the frame, the column, the linkage, and, if you go from manual to power steering conversion, the hydraulic loop and engine bay packaging. The tools you choose reflect that. A good pitman arm puller is worth more than a second set of hands. An angle finder prevents a hundred small headaches. Clean cuts and correct phasing on a steering universal joint create a direct, linear feel that is noticeable the moment you roll out of the driveway.
Take time at the beginning to map the geometry, measure parts, and lay out your cuts. Use threadlocker and torque specs without shortcuts. Bleed the system patiently. Recheck after a few drives. The payoff is steering that feels planted and precise, backed by the peace of mind that comes from doing the job with the right tools and a careful hand.
Borgeson Universal Co. Inc.
9 Krieger Dr, Travelers Rest, SC 29690
860-482-8283